Tim and Kramer have put in some observations plots, and Suzanne put in a 12-fern experimental planting, north of (and to the left in) this photo. Matt & co. planted perhaps 50 ferns just down-slope from the scene pictured here as part of (I hope I have this right) an eco-physiological study.
About 30 yards to the north of this site the forest understory gets healthy again. Last week I went looking in that area for healthy ferns to monitor. We do not yet have a detailed record of how fern fronds are affected, from health to first symptom to full death. I figure that a photographic record of a few individual fronds on different plants may be useful.
While looking around for plants to monitor, I came across a few large areas dominated by healthy Oregon Grape, mahonia nervosa. At Seward, healthy ferns often appear in mixed communities with this species. Salal can be intermixed as well. All three species appear in various ratios, with complete dominance by a single species sometimes occurring, but often in mixtures on a sliding scale, of the three species.
I now feel that complete sword fern recovery at Seward Park is a distant prospect - at best. There is little to no evidence of natural regeneration - of ferns, or any other species. The only exception to this which I have seen thus far at Seward is a large bloom of the invasive weed Herb-Robert - in an area (not quite visible here) at the top left of the above photo.
This all leads me to suggest that
- The next urgent task at Seward is restoration of native understory where the sword ferns have died off.
- Oregon Grape and Salal are the best candidates for planting
- Growing these from native seed, collected from this forest, means that restoration will be inexpensive and low risk.
I bet there is a lot of practical knowledge and advice around on how to grow mahonia from seed. Some casual web searching suggests that seeds are best collected in early September and then planted right away so that 'stratification' happens naturally over the winter. Growth is slow in early years. Maybe extra watering will not be needed. Perhaps salal is similar?
I am eager to hear advice, suggestions, and comments on this plan.
Hmmm... my first comment seems to have vanished into the ether. I'll try again.
ReplyDeleteGrowing from seed is possible with both Mahonia and Salal, but both species take 2 years to get to a gallon plant from seed.
I've grown both and my experience says it should be done in a greenhouse for best results.
I think it would be easier and faster to get the plants from KCD or GSP.
Thanks, David. My interest in on-site planting of indigenous seed is motivated by the radical reduction in cost and effort that's involved. There would be no plants to purchase, no greenhouse space to acquire, no need to water through the summer drought. Plants germinating on-site from indigenous seed may be better adapted than nursery plants; mycorrhizal networks presumably form from early on. And the target species is mahonia, maybe salal as well, because sword ferns do not regenerate under a closed canopy.
ReplyDeleteI acknowledge that this strategy may not work. But as an experiment that runs for a few years, which requires only a few hours of total labor, which uses free seed and relies on mostly natural processes, taking place on currently bare ground: would not the risks be few, and the possible gain (in understory restored, in restoration insight) be worth it?
Pessimistically, a dozen hours of labor will be wasted. Optimistically, we will acquire a useful and inexpensive restoration technique, well-suited to Seward Park. The actual result will probably be mixed: some success, some failure.
This modest experiment - tell me if I got this wrong - does not conflict with all the other research and restoration work that Parks, you, John, Marianne, Kramer, Tim and Verdant are doing.
Perhaps the best thing for me to do is, after more comments have come in, to draft a 1-page proposal to Lisa for formal consideration (and advice and critique).
I am inclined to agree with David that if you want to restore an area (or see if it is possible) you would get results faster using plants from KCD or GSP that are relatively inexpensive. Or you could do both - quicker plants to address survival and seeds to reduce longer term costs.
ReplyDeletePaul (S), It's not a bad idea and I agree it certainly couldn't hurt to try. If you give it a go, you need to
ReplyDelete1) collect the fruits when ripe. Put them in the fridge for storage.
2) When the first rains come, separate the seeds from the fruit and wash thoroughly.
3) soak the seed for a week, changing the water 2x per day (you are leaching out any germination suppressing chemicals that are in the fruit. It would be better to pass the seeds thru the gut of a bear, but kind of messy to pick the seeds out of you know what).
4) plant about 1/2" below the soil surface.
Do not let the seeds dry out as this may cause a deep dormancy.
Germination will take place after the seed has experienced about 12 weeks of cold (40˚F being the optimum temperature).
Hi David. Glad to hear you think the experiment might be useful.
DeleteMy prejudices run towards minimizing human action. This is also described as being lazy! So confirmation bias makes me happy to read a minimalist approach to propagating Oregon Grape described by Amy Grotta, OSU Forestry & Natural Resources Extension, available here (scroll down to dwarf oregon-grape)
http://blogs.oregonstate.edu/treetopics/2014/08/26/propagating-native-shrubs-seed-cuttings/
"Collect ripe berries in summer; remove some of the pulp and plant seed soon after harvest; need cold and moisture to germinate the following spring."
What do you think?
I wanted to update this discussion with my observation of several baby Mahonia aquifolia at Martha Washington Park. They are self seeded. Some are near other plants but some are more than 10 yards away, suggesting birds (or people) as the vector.
Deletethey are all on bare ground. I have yet to see any in chip mulch.
So if you are going to do this, I would clear the ground before planting.
I also think it doesn't hurt to keep the fruits in the fridge. Oregon Grape fruits often hang on the vine for months. Collecting when ripe and putting them in the fridge is not that different.
In any case, there are lots of seed, you could try both methods.